Category Archives: Hard Wood Floors

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Grain Pattern

Because wood typically darkens with age, and is likely the wood has been stained, color can’t be relied on for wood identification.  Though it is not an exact science, the typical way to identify hardwood is to identify it by grain patterns.

Oak is traditional and can be recognized by a distinctive, recurring flame pattern. Oak has a wider grain than pine and looks rough.   Red oak is the most common, with bold grain lines throughout the pattern.  White oak, which is more exclusive, has similar patterns, but the lines are more delicate.

Maple has a creamy appearance and is distinctively different than oak.  Sometimes devoid of grain, the light-brown lines are thin and subtle, wander aimlessly and are more complex.  With its glassy surface, maple has more consistency than oak.  Used in bowling alleys or dance halls.

Hickory has the hardness of maple but lacks the glassiness.  Hickory displays thin, dark grain lines, with sharp, jagged points in random formations.  It might have the flame pattern of oak, but the pattern is inconsistent.  Blunt color variations, such as black streaks, may also be present.  Used in baseball bats and ax handles.

Cherry and Walnut round out the domestic hardwoods commonly used.  Cherry contains delicate, subtle grain lines that wander aimlessly and has a distinctive reddish color.  Walnut has few visible grain lines but may present lighter, almost white streaks or bands and is chocolate in color.  Used in fine furniture.

Mahogany is imported, but is typically grouped with the domestic varieties because of its availability. Mahogany has consistent, straight grain lines with few variations and has an orange tint that differentiates it from cherry.

Exotics are complicated to identify due to the unfamiliarity and wide assortment of imported hardwoods.  But, in most cases, the wood is harder and darker than domestic varieties.  The woo may have wild, crazy grain patterns that don’t fit common trademarks, straight, uniform lines or flat, ebony surfaces without obvious grain. Identifying exotics is difficult at best.

Pine and Fir are typical softwoods.  Both have bold grain lines that are far wider than the hardwoods.  Pine is one of the easiest to identify with a narrow grain with long, oval loops and dark spots scattered throughout the wood.  Used in lodges and cabins.

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Even professionals occasionally get stumped when it comes to wood identification. The good news is that only a handful of wood species are commonly used for wood floors in the United States.  Know this makes identification easier.

Tip – Determine whether boards are solid or engineered by examining their cross-section.  Solid wood flooring has grain patterns, holes and pores.  Engineered or faux wood flooring has a particle board, or layered appearance.

  • This can be done by removing the floor vent and examine the end or side for the exposed wood.
  • Also try a doorway after prying up the threshold or transition piece with a pry bar.
  • If these are impractical, pry off a baseboard and slip a mirror between the boards and wall.

Hard or Soft

First, determine if the floor is a soft or hard wood.

If the floor is unfinished, start with pore identification.  Softwoods, such as pine or fir, typically have closed pores, resulting in a smooth surface. Hardwoods, such as oak and mahogany, typically have open pores, resulting in a porous texture with small divots, indentations or holes in the wood.  However, identifying by pores is not full proof.  Maple has a smooth surface, similar to pine, absent of obvious pores, contradicting the rule.

Next, try a couple the indentation tests.  Hardness is one factor to find out if the floor is hard or soft wood.  Find an inconspicuous area and try marking it with your fingernail.  If it can be marked your fingernail alone, it’s probably softwood.  Hardwoods, such as oak, maple, beech and walnut resist marks by fingernails.  Another test you can try is to step on the floor with a pointed heel or a medium tap with a ball peen hammer.  If either of these makes a dent, then the floor is likely made from a soft wood, such as pine, fur or cedar.  (Note, both of these test work best on unfinished wood, but if this is not available, sand a small spot in an inconspicuous area first.)

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The word parquet (pronounced par-KAY) comes from an old custom, which was to place wooden planks under thrones and other seats of honor, in order to visually separate these areas above the floor. This decorative flooring was known as the parc (park) or parquet (little park).  The illusionistic 3D designs were made by hand cutting small pieces of various colored hardwoods into geometric shapes using squares, triangles, and lozenges (diamonds).  Then pieces of contrasting colored wood were then laid, scraped, scrubbed with sand, stained and polished.

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According to “THE ELEMENTS OF STYLE” encyclopedia, as late as 1625 the ground floor of most European houses were still a beaten earth floor.  Visitors were required to wipe their shoes on an entry mat to prevent this natural floor from getting muddy or dusty.  If the homeowner could afford it, the second floor had wooden joists and plank flooring sometimes 2 feet wide of oak or elm.

Prior to the 1600’s, only the wealthy and the Royalty had floors that consisted of Marble slabs. The marble required constant washing which quickly lead to the rotting of the wooden joints underneath the marble slabs.  It wasn’t until the Barouque Era (1625-1714) that wooden floors became elegant.

Thought still considered a novelty in the 1620s, Queen Marie de Medici of France installed an elaborate parquet floor in the Luxembourg Palace.  Over the next few decades, parquet floors became THE fashionable flooring in fancy Parisian homes and upscale hotels, including the hôtel de Lauzun.  By the time her daughter, English Queen Henrietta Maria installed parquet floors at Somerset House in 1661, the technique had become accepted as French style.  A 1673 issue of the Mercure Galant, the most fashionable society magazine in Paris, explained to readers that “people of quality” were forgoing dusty carpets in favor of parquet.

Parquet floors didn’t really become prevalent, though, until Louis XIV had them installed at Versailles in the 1680s. He spent the previous two decades expanding and renovating the family hunting lodge in order to turn it into a seat of power equal with all the glories of France.  Initially, marble floors were installed in all new areas, and replaced broken earthenware tiles in the bedrooms of the original hunting lodge.  By the 1670s, some of the marble floors were leaking when washed,  rotting the joists and floor supports  The decision was made to replace most of the marble with wooden floors — a decision that must have had plenty to do with aesthetics as well as engineering, considering that it was so ‘on trend’.

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Parquet continued to be popular in grander homes through the 19th century.  In the 1930s, the introduction of carpeting manufacturing made it possible for people to install carpet over wooden floors.  It looked as though wood floors would become totally obsolete as carpeting seemed to be the floor covering of choice.  But, the 1980s and 90s showed a renewed interest in wood flooring.  This resurgence was due, in part, with better floor manufacturing techniques and more durable materials such as laminates.  Today, Parquet floors are popular once again and are more affordable than ever before.

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One of the most noticeable and least expensive improvements a homeowner can make is to restore a dull, dirt wood floor.  Over time, the urethane finish on your hardwood floors will eventually begin to wear.  The key is to recognize this and have your floor recoated with an additional application, or “top coat” of urethane before it’s too late.

There are a couple of ways to tell if it is time to refinish / restore your floors –

First, a visual inspection – Have the high-traffic walkway areas lost their sheen or gloss in comparison to the no-traffic far edges of the floor?  You might also see graying in the floor in these areas.  The graying is caused by grinding dirt in to the open pores of the wood floor when you walk on the area that has lost its finish.

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You can also try the water test – Pour a tablespoon of water onto the high-traffic section of floor and watch what it does.

  • If it forms droplets that rest on top of the wood, the finish is in good condition.
  • If it soaks into the wood slowly, the finish is wearing thin, but you can probably postpone the job if you need to.
  • If the water quickly penetrates the wood and leaves a dark splotch, the floor needs to be refinished right away.

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Have you have already made the mistake of using an adhesive backed stair tread?  Is it time to replace them?  I’m not going to kid you, it will take some time and elbow grease to remove the adhesive.  First, pull off the old carpet tread.  If it doesn’t pull off easily, use a plastic paint scraper between the stair and tread.  To get the adhesive residue off, start at the top of the steps and work your was down.  Stray the step with an adhesive solvent and let sit according to the directions.  Use a plastic paint scraper and scrape off as much residue as possible.  Please the scrapings in a small bucket lined with a trash bag (the grocery store bags work well).  Once you have gotten off as much residue as you can, wipe down with a wet soft cotton cloth.  (A word of caution – spray, scrape & wipe down one step at a time – if you spray more than step at a time, you could slip on the wet steps.)  This process may need to be repeats several time to ensure all the adhesive has been removed.  If so, let the steps dry for a day between each application.   For additional information on Removing Adhesives with Solvents

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When the treads were removed from the stairs, we were left with a lot of very stick adhesive.  There are many different products that can be used to remove the residue.  Some can cause damage or discoloration to the wood.  Some smell bad and require ventilation.  We decided to use a commercial adhesive remover based on orange oil instead.   This has the lowest risk of causing damage to the floor.  There are several orange oil removers available either on line or at your local hardware store.  We choose De-Solv-it.  It is biodegradable, noncarcinogenic formula that contains no harsh solvents.  We followed the label directions and let the product sit for @15 minutes before scraping.  Because of the amount of residue left behind, we needed to do 2 applications.  De-Sol-it did a great job removing the adhesive from the steps.  Clean up was easy and left very little odor.

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New Life Floors recently refinished a floor that had a somewhat strange issue.  When the current homeowner looked at the house before purchasing, the floors looks great – clean and shinny.  However, when they moved in, they discovered the previous homeowner varnished around the area rugs.  Fortunately, they were able to find area rugs to cover the unfinished sections.  Fast forward 20 years – the current homeowners are ready to sell.  Much of the varnish had worn off leaving the floors splotchy.  We were able to scrape off the remaining varnish and refinish the floors properly.  But why did this happen?  The previous homeowner applied a coat of varnish on the floor without prepping it properly.  There needs to be a ‘tooth’ on the floor so the finish has something to stick to.  This can be done by sanding, screening or sandlessly preparing the floors.  (Insert commercial for New Life Floors here).  When it comes time to spruce up your floors, PLEASE DON’T apply finish to an unprepared floor and PLEASE DON’T just apply finish around the area rugs.  Whichever method is appropriate for your floors, save yourself some aggravation and call a professional and have the entire floor done.

But wait – it gets better.  The current homeowners compounded the problem by putting adhesive backed stair treads on the varnished hard wood steps.  Very sticky residue was left behind when the 20 year old treads were removed.   With a lot of scraping, we were able to remove the residue off and refinish the stairs properly.  PLEASE DON’T use adhesive backed stair treads.  If you are like me and don’t like a bare step, there are a couple of options.  First, use small carpet tacks in each of the corners of the tread.  This will prevent the carpet from slipping. The tacks leave small holes in the floor, but this is less damage and less work to remove when it comes time to replace the treads.  The other option is to have a runner installed down the length of the steps.

NEW LIFE FLOORS COMMERCIAL

Our sandless hard wood floor refinishing method is cheaper, faster and cleaned than traditional sanding.  We use a buffer and clean & prep solution that removes paint splatters, surface scratches, scuff marks and the years of ground in dirt normal cleaning can’t get out.  This process micro abrades the surface and we apply 2 coats of urethane.

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Wow, it got cold fast and snow is just around the corner.  This means it’s time to take extra precautions to protect your hardwood floors.  Melting snow and de-icing salt can wreak havoc on your hardwood floors.

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  • Put a bristly floor mat outside the front door to encourage everyone to wipe their feet before coming inside. This will remove the largest particles of salt and clumps of unmelted snow.
  • Use an oversize welcome mat or rug at the entrance to catch anything that traveled inside.
  • Remove shoes and boots upon entering the house and place them on a rubber mat left by the door. Road salt trapped in the treads of your shoes can leave behind unsightly white residue on your floors or produce small scratches on the surface.
  • Keep old towels or cleaning rags near the door. Wipe up puddles immediately. Standing water can damage your floors.
  • Don’t forget to wipe off your pets paws when they come in – they can be the number one offenders of tracking snow and slush into the house.
  • Clean up any melted snow and salt immediately. buy amoxicillin online next day delivery ukcan you buy amoxicillin at walgreens  gives tips on removing the salt.

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Sanding Sandless
Hang plastic on all doors so the sanding grit doesn’t get all over the house No need – no sanding – no grit
Pets and people may have to stay elsewhere while the floors are being refinished.  You don’t want to breath any dust the plastic didn’t contain You and your pets can remain in the house – our products are eco-friendly & safe around kids and pets
Takes 3 to 5 days to refinish a floor Most floors take 1 day
Cost @ $4 a square foot or more Costs less than $2 a square foot
If a floor has been sanded 2 times, it cannot be sanded again – it would need to be replaced We can save you the cost of floor replacement by using our sandless method

 

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Is your old, dirty carpet hiding a beautiful hard wood floor?  Remove the carpet.

  1. Vacuum the carpet to cut down on dust as the carpet is removed.
  2. For protection, wear a dust mask, heavy work gloves and sturdy,  thick-soled, close-toed shoes.
  3. Cut into manageable sections with a carpet knife or utility knife without cutting into the floor.
  4. Roll up that section and wrap a piece of duct tape around the section to keep it from unrolling.
  5. Pull up the section of padding, roll it up and wrap with duct tape also..
  6. Use pliers to remove the staples that held the pad down.  Pull them straight up to keep from making a larger hole,  If the staples are tight against the floor, tap a small flat-bladed screw driver under them to loosen enough to pull out with the pliers.
  7. Once all the carpet, padding and staples have been removed, use a pry bar to pull up the tack strip that runs around the room.  Remove any extraneous nails with a hammer claw.  Be careful – those nails are sharp.
  8. Sweep of vacuum the floor.

Now the floor is ready to be refinished sandlessly